Ecuador, a magical country also known as the "Country of the Equator," has been described as "the nation closest to the sun," nestled between Peru and Colombia.
Cuenca is the capital of the Azuay Province in southern Ecuador. Located in the highlands of the Andes Mountains at an altitude of 2,560 meters (8,400 feet), it has a population of 450,000.
Wandering through the streets of Cuenca, you might feel as if you're in Europe. Indeed, Cuenca is widely regarded as the most European city in Ecuador.
This is due to the large number of Spanish colonial buildings constructed in the city during the 16th and 17th centuries. In fact, the name "Cuenca" is taken from the city of the same name in Spain. Cuenca's historic center, with its numerous historical buildings, has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Cuenca's Carnival (El Carnaval) is celebrated annually for three days before Ash Wednesday in March. People celebrate by throwing water balloons and spraying Carioca (a non-staining foam) on friends and strangers.
Cuenca has a subtropical highland climate, with an average annual temperature of 14.7°C (58.5°F), making it pleasant year-round. Days are warm, and nights are cool, requiring a sweater or jacket. Cuenca has two seasons: a dry season from June to December and a rainy season from January to May, with heavier rainfall from March to May.
Cuenca's city center is very walkable. In fact, walking is often faster than taking a taxi due to traffic congestion. A typical taxi ride costs $2-3. Cycling is also a good option, with bike rentals available at Mallki Hostel and Casa do Brasil cafe.
Cuenca, known as the Athens of Ecuador, is full of South American charm.
1. Calderón Park
Calderón Park, located in the heart of Cuenca, is a popular starting point for tourists. Visitors accustomed to public squares around the world might be surprised by the park's peaceful atmosphere, with hardly any street vendors, and only the occasional sound of passing cars.
However, during festivals, the park transforms into the city's most vibrant and lively spot.
In the center of the park stands a statue of Abdón Calderón, an 18th-century hero who fought for the country's freedom, depicted holding the flag of independence despite his wounds. The park is named in his honor.
The park also houses a religious art museum, formerly Cuenca's Old Cathedral, while the New Cathedral is located on the west side of the park. Several cafes surround the park. A good option is Frutilado for a cup of espresso.
2. Old Cathedral of Cuenca
The Church of the Shrine, commonly known as the Old Cathedral of Cuenca, is located in Parque Calderón. Construction began in 1557, and it served as a place of worship for the Spanish during the colonial era.
Once the larger New Cathedral was built, the Old Cathedral was no longer used for religious services. After a major renovation in 1999, it became the Museum for Religious Art and now hosts concerts and cultural events.
The building has three naves. In front of the central altar is a set of life-size statues depicting the Last Supper, with detailed portrayals of Jesus and his disciples. Above the entrance is a beautifully decorated pipe organ. The walls are painted in soft watercolor hues. Despite numerous renovations, the Old Cathedral retains its original character.
3. New Cathedral of Cuenca
The Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, commonly known as the New Cathedral, is located opposite the Old Cathedral in Parque Calderón. Construction began in 1885 to provide a larger worship space, taking nearly a century to complete. When it was finished, it could accommodate 9,000 of Cuenca's 10,000 residents.
The architectural style is predominantly Romanesque Revival but incorporates elements of other styles. The cathedral is characterized by its three large domes, adorned with blue and white glazed tiles from Czechoslovakia. The domes have become an iconic part of the city's skyline. The stained-glass windows were created by Spanish artist Guillermo Larrazábal. The striped marble on the facade and the pink marble on the floor were imported from Italy.
4. Homero Ortega Panama Hat Museum
Upon arriving in Cuenca, you'll discover that the famous "Panama hat" doesn't actually come from Panama but is a source of pride for Ecuador. It's said that in the mid-19th century, Ecuadorian merchants exported these straw hats through Panama, where they gained popularity among Europeans.
At The Homero Ortega P. & Hijos, a factory and museum, you can witness the entire hat-making process and see various hats handcrafted by Cuenca's indigenous people. The factory offers free guided tours in English, Spanish, and German.
Strictly speaking, only hats made from the leaves of the "toquilla" plant, native to Ecuador, are considered authentic Panama hats. Due to the intricate craftsmanship involved, Panama hats were recognized as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2012. They are an integral part of the local culture.
5. El Cajas National Park
Located 30 kilometers west of Cuenca, El Cajas National Park is a scenic area in the Ecuadorian highlands, with altitudes ranging from 3,100 to 4,450 meters (10,170 to 14,600 feet). The park covers 285,000 hectares, featuring vast Andean grasslands dotted with numerous lakes of various sizes, totaling 768, making it one of Ecuador's most important water sources. It is currently under consideration for inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
The dry season, from October to January, is the best time to visit El Cajas National Park.
A highlight of the park is the Polylepis forest. These Polylepis trees are unique to South America and are the highest-elevation trees in the world. Lake Toreadora is another major attraction, accessible by a trail from the visitor center.
6. Ingapirca Inca Ruins
Located 80 kilometers from Cuenca, about a 1.5-hour drive, is Ingapirca, the largest Inca site in Ecuador. "Ingapirca" means "Inca wall" in the local language. The marvel of Inca architecture is that the walls are constructed from precisely cut stones without any mortar.
The Inca Empire was an ancient civilization that originated in the Andes region and was conquered by the Spanish in the 16th century. It's said that some large stones from this site were removed by Spanish colonists to build other structures. Fortunately, the ruins, a symbol of Inca civilization, have survived and continue to attract visitors from around the world.
Here, you can also see llamas, native South American animals, grazing leisurely.
7. Swing at Casa del Arbol
Located 338 kilometers (about a 6-hour drive) from Cuenca, in the city of Baños, is a mountaintop seismic monitoring station called Casa del Arbol (Treehouse). It's used to monitor the nearby active volcano, Mt. Tungurahua. You can sometimes hear the volcano rumbling and see smoke from its crater.
However, the main attraction here is the thrilling swing hanging from a branch of the treehouse. With a simple safety belt, the swing takes you out over the valley, offering a feeling of swinging at the end of the world. There are no age restrictions for the swing. You might feel a bit scared at first, but you'll soon be captivated by the stunning valley views. Staff members are on hand to help with the safety belt, push the swing, and take photos.
The treehouse is part of a small park with an entrance fee of just $2, which includes access to three swings and a small zipline. There's also a small cafe on-site, with food and drinks available for an additional cost.